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This section is not designed to replace one on one consultation with Jannetty Racing, but should hopefully answer some basic questions. If you have any other questions about your vehicle, feel free to contact us. We take pleasure in helping you get the best package for your needs.
Q.  This truck is my everyday driver. '94/auto/3.54 reg cab, 2-wheel. I use it  for city/highway driving empty, as well as hauling 40 bales of hay for the horses, misc. bags of feed, auto parts for my "projects", pulling a car trailer, an enclosed 20' trailer, 24' boat and four horse trailer. It has 107k, tranny went south at 72k, (dodge rebuilt for free) inj pump went at  68k, (Dodge rebuilt for free), otherwise fine. I live near Phoenix, so I sometimes pull a heavy trailer through the mountains in 118 deg. heat. I'm looking for something that would give me more power, both HP and Torque, not reduce engine life, (I'll have this truck till i die), and not reduce my current 20mpg.
A. My power kit is the first thing you should do, It installs in about an hour and can be reverted back to stock in half that time because you would be familiar with the procedure. But trust me you will not want to give it up! The power kit includes a K&N high flow washable reusable air filter, a new custom fuel calibration cam plate that determines horse power and torque, a bleed orifice to increase boost, to efficiently burn the added fuel, An installation guide plate to aid the installation of the new cam plate, a new factory breakoff screw incase you ever want to revert back to stock, and a complete set of very good instructions.  You can expect 230 horsepower at 2500 rpms and 610 lbs torque at 1700 rpms with no loss in fuel economy or any adverse affects on the engine. Keep in mind that these engines were designed to make 400 hp and 900 lbs torque.
Q. How big of a horsepower gain can be expected from the Cummins turbo diesel Stage II and Stage III power kits and when would I have to invest in a new clutch for my 5-speed 97' 3500 Dodge. Also, what is the price for injectors if was to install a Stage II or III kit in my truck. Finally, how much is the larger turbine housing and what kind of H.P. and torque gains could I expect. Thanks for your time. Nicholas 97' 12-V Cummins Turbo Diesel3500 5-speed ext.-cab Dodge Ram.
A. The stage 1 kit will set your engine at 230hp, 610Torque.  Stage 2 will set your engine at 330hp-730tq but I will strongly suggest a 4" exhaust and a set of gauges. If you combine a set of injectors with a stage 1 kit, you will be at 330hp-730tq and I will make the same recommendations as above. The advantage of the combo of the stage 1 and the injectors is a lot more torque in the lower rpms as opposed to the stage 2 alone. I run the stage 3 kit with the same injectors, 450hp+- 900+lbs. torque. This combo rips right through the stock clutch in third gear no load 1/4 throttle. Any thing above 730lbs torque can slip the stock clutch. I strongly suggest you leave the turbo alone, you will lose throttle response and gain more smoke by adding the 16cm2 turbine housing, only to gain 20 hp in the upper most rpms where you don't drive.
Q. I have a 24 Valve Cummins with  about 18000 miles, but fuel  mileage is still only 15mpg (br2500 club cab, auto, 3.55 gear, 4wd) I had a 92 Dodge Cummins 2wd, 3.55 5spd, it got 20 mpg around town. Can I do anything for better mileage?
A. The reason your mileage is down compared to your 92 Dodge is as follows.
1. Automatic trans/not as efficient at transmitting power to the ground.
2. club cab/ more weight
3. 4x4/ more weight and more parts to turn.
4. shorter tires, 215/85r/16 on the 98, and 235/85r/16 on the 92
5. The 24 valve Cummins is calibrated in such a way that they don't have the torque in the low rpms like your 92 did, so the engine is always at a higher rpm to do the same job.
By adding the injectors and a 4" exhaust, you will achieve a lot more torque in the lower rpms allowing your truck to obtain better fuel economy by staying at a lower rpm to do the same job, plus its a lot more fun to drive! Don't expect more than about 18 mpg.
Q.  I have a 1990 Dodge Diesel the fuel and rpms have been turned up quite a bit the truck also has the 16cm turbo housing, K-N air filter and a straight pipe. I was wanting to know what else I can do to it. The truck is a 5spd,with 3.54 gears.
A. Your next step would be to add an Intercooler and larger Injectors.
Q. What is your impression is on a K&N filter for the ISB  Dodge Ram? Is it safe? Any chance it will shorten my engine's life expectancy, provided all clamps and sealing edges are properly sealed?
A. I checked with K&N's engineers and they told me that their air filters do a better job of filtering the dirt out of the air, and they backed it up with a report from a independent lab that did the test, I have the report on file, very extensive! If you like. you can contact K&N and they will send you a copy. The K&N will definitely improve your throttle response and maybe fuel economy.
Q.  I have read that there are different cam plates available (TST). If I were to upgrade to a 'higher' cam plate and the newer injectors could I drive easy without damaging the trans until I could afford to do the TRANS KIT/TC upgrade and exhaust. I have installed the TC lock switch and like the way I can control the way the trans shifts. ie... around town, the OD off and TC locked seems to prevent a lot of slipping. Right now, most all of the driving I do is making service calls around town and on the highway to and from service calls.
A. I have the other cam plates in stock, you can go to 255hp-635tq or 275hp-675tq but you better drive easy because there is not enough line pressure to hold the converter from slipping when locked. Again I would suggest the converter and shift kit or valve body, before any more power upgrades, other than maybe exhaust.
Q.  What can you do for a 1999 3/4 ton Big Block (454) Suburban. It's a lot better than the 1996 3/4 ton 350 model I had. I tow a 20ft Ranger Bass boat  with 200 hp on it.  The truck can use a little more juice.
A. I have just what you need, start out with an Edelbrock header and Y pipe kit, then a 3" high flow exhaust cat back and leave the original cat, they are pretty good. Then add a K&N air filter, my air flow enhancer, and air inlet tube. Also we have custom computer chips that bring the whole package together. I would also recommend a MSD ignition system complete with box, coil, wires, cap and rotor. You can expect slightly better fuel economy but a lot more power!
Q. I'm considering purchasing an Exhaust Brake in the near future.  Could you tell me or point me to a description of the Auto-loc and what it has to offer over other brakes. Is  it easy to install, ala the Pac-Brake.
A. The Auto Loc is NOT an exhaust brake, It's an add on to any of the after market exhaust brakes, for automatic equipped trucks, It keeps the torque converter locked when the exhaust brake is engaged, protecting your trans. from heat build up, and giving you excellent brake performance, Other wise the brakes are pretty useless on an automatic equipped truck. If you would like to see a brochure on the exhaust brake or the Auto Loc send me your name and address, and I will be happy to oblige.
Q. I saw somewhere that you use "spill port method" to time the Cummins. Would you explain that timing method to me?
A. Basically, we disconnect the fuel inlet line and return line and block the return line, then we attach our pump to the inlet port on the pump, then disconnect the # 1 injection line from the pump and install our own line to return to our pump, we flow our test fluid through your pump and rotate the engine to find port closure or when the fluid stops flowing, then using a piston TDC tool I compare port closure to the piston position in the engine, It is the most accurate method of setting pump timing, with in 1/100 of 1 mm.
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